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Equipment Payments

How much does a Scamp trailer cost?

Work out what a Scamp actually costs to get onto your driveway, rather than the base price people quote at each other. It is built to order, which means the options on the build sheet are not extras sitting beside the price, they are a large part of it, and each one is small enough to wave through on its own. It is also collected rather than delivered by default, so fetching it is fuel, wear and nights on the road that appear in almost nobody's budget. Put in the factory's quote for your build, what you have ticked, the tax and registration where you live, the hitch and wiring your vehicle still needs, and what the trip to collect it costs, and see the landed figure and how far it sits above the base.

§ 01 Your numbers

Change anything. The answer updates as you type.

The shell at the length and layout you want, before the options below. The default is ours and editable, and the factory's figure for your build is the one that matters.
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Get this figure for the exact length and layout you intend to order rather than for the entry configuration, because the two are different trailers and the gap between them is not small. Length is the fork that moves this line hardest, and it moves more than the money: it also decides what your vehicle needs to be rated for and which sites will take you. Ask what the quoted figure already includes before you compare it against anything, since the line between the base build and an option is a decision the factory made rather than a law of nature, and a quote that looks higher may simply have more of the sheet folded into it. If you are cross-shopping a new build against a used one, run this page twice: the used one skips the wait and starts with less value left to give up, and it also skips very little of the journey below, because a used trailer is wherever its seller happens to live.
Everything you add to the base build. Total it from your own sheet. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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This box is where the page expects you to surprise yourself, so fill it in from the actual sheet rather than from memory. A built-to-order trailer is configured line by line, and the trap is structural rather than anybody's fault: each choice is small next to the base price, so each one clears the bar on its own, and the sheet is long. Add them up before you order rather than after, because that total is the part of this purchase you have the most control over and the part that quietly stops being controllable the moment the build starts. It is worth sorting your list into what changes how you use the trailer and what changes how it looks while it sits in storage, because both cost real money and only one of them keeps paying you back. Where you land here also feeds the resale question this page will not answer for you: an option is money you spend now against a figure a private buyer sets years from now, and those are not the same money.
What your state charges to make it yours and put a plate on it. The default is ours and a placeholder, because this one is local.
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This line is set by where you bring the trailer home to rather than by where it was built, and it is genuinely worth ten minutes with your own state's rules before you take any total seriously, including this one. The pieces vary in name and in size: sales or use tax on the purchase, a title fee, a registration fee that may run on the trailer's weight or its value or a flat schedule, and in some places an annual renewal that keeps arriving long after the purchase is a memory. Buying in one state and registering in another does not usually move the tax the way people hope, since the charge tends to follow where the trailer lives. Put your own figure in here and treat our default as a stand-in that is almost certainly wrong for you.
Parts and fitting, if the vehicle on your driveway is not ready to tow yet. Put zero if it already is. The default is ours and editable.
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A Scamp is small enough that the vehicle you already own may well pull it, which is exactly why this is a box here rather than a reason to buy a truck. What is usually missing is the hardware: a hitch, the wiring for the lights and brakes, and sometimes a brake controller inside the cab. Price the fitting along with the parts, because the two are quoted separately and the fitting is often the larger half. Do not read the presence of this box as the page telling you your car is fine. Fill it in, then go and check the loaded weight against your vehicle's actual rating, which is on the door jamb rather than in the brochure, and note that what you tow is the trailer plus water plus gear rather than the trailer as it left the factory. The trailer hitch page linked below prices this line properly if you want it broken out.
What it costs to drive there and tow back. The default is ours, a placeholder, and it assumes a long way.
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This is the line the page exists for, and the honest starting point is that most buyers write zero here without noticing they have done it. Factory-direct means the trailer does not come to you, so somebody drives to it, and that somebody is you. Price the round trip rather than the distance: you drive out unloaded and come back towing, and the return leg costs more per mile than the outbound one because you are pulling a box through the air. Put wear in alongside the fuel, since it is the same trip and the tyres and the brakes do not care that you were on holiday. Then hold the total below up against a delivery quote. That comparison is the point, and it is one you cannot make until you have this number, which is why we ask for it rather than folding it into the base.
Nights you sleep somewhere on the way. Put zero if it is a day trip. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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A fetch that spans more than a day quietly stops being a drive and starts being a trip, with a bed in it, and the beds are a line rather than a detail. Be realistic about the shape of it: the outbound leg is a normal drive, the return leg is slower because you are towing, and towing something you collected an hour ago on roads you do not know is not the day to push for one more hour. The days themselves are not on this ledger and they are not free either, so if you are taking leave to do this, count that separately and add it to what the trip really cost you. Some buyers make the collection into the first trip, which is a fine answer and worth being explicit about: those nights are then holiday rather than overhead, and they belong in this box at whatever you think the holiday is worth to you.
A room, or a site, per night on the trip. The default is ours and editable.
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Put in what you would really pay on the road rather than a figure tuned to make the trip look small, and remember the asymmetry the trip has: on the way out you have no trailer, so you are paying for a room like anybody else, and on the way back you are towing a bed you now own. That second half is one of the small pleasures of collecting it yourself and it is worth a line in the argument, though it is worth less than people expect if the trailer is not set up and you are learning where everything is in a dark car park. If you are treating the collection as the trailer's first outing, price these nights as what the holiday is worth to you rather than as overhead, and the total below turns from a cost into a cost plus a trip, which is a fairer description of what you actually bought.
Estimated cost
$33,500
  • The trailer, as the factory quotes your build$25,000
  • Options on the build sheet$5,000
  • Tax, title and registration$1,800
  • Hitch and wiring on your vehicle$500
  • Getting it home (fuel and wear, plus nights on the road)$1,200
  • Total$33,500
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$22,000 to $38,000 landed is the usual shape of a new build: a real length, a sheet with the things you wanted on it, your state's cut, and a trip to go and get it. This is the band where the split matters more than the total does. Look at how much of it is the trailer and how much is everything else, because the everything else is the part you can still move: the sheet is yours until the build starts, and the journey is a comparison against a delivery quote you have not asked for yet.

What this assumes, and where it could be wrong

Every one of these is a place the number could be off. They are here because you should be able to check our working, not because we are hedging.

THE BASE PRICE IS THE FIGURE PEOPLE REPEAT, AND IT IS NOT WHAT ONE COSTS.
This is the whole page. A trailer you order is a trailer you configure, and configuring it is not a step that happens after the price is settled, it is how the price gets settled. So the base figure is a starting line rather than a quote, and every buyer who has one in their head has a number that is true about a trailer they are not going to order. At our defaults the base is $25,000 and the landed figure is $33,500, which puts $8,500 outside the number the buyer arrived with: the options, the state's cut, a hitch, and the trip to go and get it. None of that is hidden and none of it is a surprise in the sense of being unknowable. Every line of it can be priced before you order. It is just that the base is the part that travels from person to person and the rest is the part you meet later, one item at a time, when the decision is already made.
The options are the part of this you control, and they are the part that gets waved through.
The trap in a build sheet is structural rather than a failure of anybody's willpower. Each option is small against the base price, so each one clears the bar on its own merits, and the sheet is long, and nothing on it ever asks you to look at the running total. At our defaults the options are $5,000 against a $25,000 base, which is a fifth of the trailer, assembled entirely out of decisions that felt minor while you were making them. Total your own sheet before you order, because this is the line you have the most power over and it stops being yours the moment the build starts. It is worth splitting the list into what changes how you use the trailer and what changes how it looks: both cost the same kind of money, and only one of them keeps paying you back on the nights you are actually in it.
The trip to collect it is a real line, and it is priced at zero by nearly every buyer.
Factory-direct means the trailer does not come to you. Somebody drives to it, tows it back, and sleeps somewhere in between, and at our defaults that is $1,200 of fuel, wear and beds, plus days you do not get back and which this ledger does not try to price. The reason it goes missing is that it does not look like part of the purchase: it looks like a road trip, and road trips are not what people budget against a trailer. Two things follow. First, the return leg is not the outbound leg, because you are towing, so it is slower and it costs more per mile. Second, and this is the useful part, you cannot judge a delivery quote until this number exists. A quote is not expensive or cheap on its own, it is expensive or cheap against the trip it saves you, and the trip is the figure this page just built for you.
No lead time and no resale figure, because those are the two we have not measured.
They are also the two you would most like us to print, so it is worth saying plainly why they are absent. A built-to-order trailer means a wait, and the wait is genuinely part of what you are choosing, since it is the difference between owning one this season and owning one next. This page does not tell you how long it is, because we have not measured it and a made-up figure would be treated as a fact. Ask the factory, and ask when you order rather than when you enquire. Resale is the same story with more folklore attached to it: you will find confident claims about what these hold with little measured underneath them. You can do better than any average we could publish. Look up what your length and layout, at the age you plan to sell, is selling for right now, and use what buyers pay rather than what sellers ask. If it comes in high, then the case for the trailer just got made with evidence rather than with reputation, which is how this page would rather see it made.

This ledger stops on your driveway, and owning it starts there. What is above is acquisition: the trailer, the sheet, the state, the hitch and the journey. It does not include storage, insurance, upkeep or the value the trailer gives up between now and when you sell it, and across a few years those are not a footnote. The Airstream calculator on this site is built for exactly that job and the arithmetic is the same for any travel trailer, so run your figures there once this one is on the driveway, and note it also divides the result by the nights you sleep in it, which is the question this page is too early to ask. Finance charges are absent here too: this is what the trailer costs, not what a loan on it costs.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a Scamp trailer cost?
The trailer itself is a factory quote against the length, the layout and the options you tick, so this page leaves that figure to the factory rather than inventing one to stand in for it. What the page adds is the part the base price cannot show you, which is what it costs to actually have one. A built-to-order trailer is configured rather than bought, so the options are a large share of the price rather than extras beside it, and then there is the state's tax and title, a hitch if your vehicle is not ready, and the trip to go and collect it, because factory-direct means it does not come to you. Put your figures into the form above and you get the landed total and how far it sits above the base. At our defaults that gap is $8,500 on a $25,000 base, which is worth knowing before you order rather than after.
Why is the base price so different from what people say a Scamp costs?
Because they are describing different trailers, and usually without realising it. The base figure is a specific configuration at a specific length, and almost nobody orders that configuration: they order it with the things they wanted, which is the point of ordering. So the number that travels from person to person is true and it is also not about the trailer you are going to have. The other half of the gap is that a purchase is not a price. Your state takes its cut when you register it, your vehicle may need a hitch and wiring, and somebody has to go and fetch the thing. At our defaults those pieces plus the options come to $8,500 on top of a $25,000 base, and every one of them is knowable before you order. Fill the boxes above with your own figures and you will have a landed number to compare against other people's base prices, which is the comparison that means something.
Should I collect it myself or pay for delivery?
Run the trip above first, then go and get a quote, and compare the two. That order matters, because a delivery quote sounds like a lot of money in isolation and it is not in isolation: it is standing against a trip that costs fuel, wear, nights on the road and days of your life, which at our defaults is $1,200 before the days. Plenty of buyers discover the quote is close to what fetching it would have cost, and some discover it is not, and both of those are useful answers you cannot reach without the number. There are real considerations either side of the money. Collecting it yourself means the first time you tow it is a long unfamiliar drive, which is a genuine argument for delivery if you have not towed before. It also means you see the trailer before it is yours in a way a delivery does not allow, and some buyers make the collection into the trailer's first trip, which turns the nights on this ledger from overhead into a holiday. The page will not pick for you. It will make sure you are picking with both numbers in front of you.
Can my car tow a Scamp, and is a tow vehicle in this total?
A vehicle is not in the total, and unlike a larger trailer that is often the right call rather than an omission, because these are light enough that the car on your driveway may well pull one. What that usually leaves is hardware rather than a vehicle: a hitch, the wiring for the lights and brakes, sometimes a controller in the cab, which is why there is a box for it above. Do not take the box as permission, though. Check it properly: take the trailer's loaded weight, which is heavier than what left the factory once water, gear and your things are in it, and compare that against your vehicle's tow rating as it is actually configured, which lives on the door jamb and in the manual rather than in the advertising. Check the tongue weight against payload separately, because the trailer presses down on the hitch and that weight is charged against payload rather than against the tow rating, and it is the limit that catches people out. If your vehicle does not clear it, then the honest price of the trailer includes changing vehicles, and that belongs in the decision even though it is not on this ledger.

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