All 175 →

Equipment Payments

How much does travel trailer insurance cost?

Work out what a year of covering a travel trailer actually costs you, and then the number the premium never shows: what you would still be out on the day the trailer is gone. Two things get missed. The year has two halves, because a trailer stored for the winter is a different risk from one being towed, and a reader who has never seen the year split has never thought to ask their insurer to price it that way. And a payout is not a replacement, because what an insurer pays for a destroyed trailer depends on a valuation basis you can ask about and probably have not. Put in what your insurer quotes for the road months and the stored months, the cover you add on top, your deductible, what replacing the trailer would cost today and what the policy would pay, and see the year and the exposure side by side.

§ 01 Your numbers

Change anything. The answer updates as you type.

The full cover you want, for the months the trailer is on the road. The default is ours and a placeholder, and your insurer's figure for your trailer is the one that matters.
More
Ask for this as a monthly figure even if the quote arrives as an annual one, because the split below is the point and you cannot do it with a single number. This is the expensive half of the year and it should be: a trailer being towed is exposed to the road, to other drivers and to your own tow, and the liability that comes with that is what you are mostly paying for here. Get the quote for the cover you actually intend to carry rather than for the thinnest policy that clears your lender or your state, since the two are different products and comparing across insurers is only meaningful if the thing being compared is held still. When you collect the figure, ask what is in it: whether your auto liability already extends to the trailer while it is hitched, and where the trailer's own contents sit, because those two answers change what this box should say and both surprise people.
The months it is parked and staying parked. Put zero if you use it year round. The default is ours and a placeholder.
More
Be honest rather than optimistic here, and count the months as they really fall rather than as you plan them in March. This box exists because a stored trailer and a towed trailer are different risks wearing the same policy: parked, it is not on a road and the liability half of the cover is doing very little, while fire, hail, theft and a tree coming down carry on regardless. That asymmetry is the reason to ask your insurer to price the two halves separately. It is also the reason not to reach for the obvious move of cancelling cover for the winter, which trades a small saving for the exact months when nobody is looking at the trailer, and can also break a lapse condition on a lender's policy. If you are a full-time or near-full-time user, put zero here and the year collapses back into one rate, which is the correct answer for you.
The reduced cover while it is parked, if your insurer will price it that way. Put the same figure as the road months if they will not. The default is ours and a placeholder.
More
The useful thing about this box is what happens when you go and ask, and both answers are worth having. If the insurer prices the stored months lower, you have found money you were not going to find, because a policy quoted as one annual number never volunteers that the year has a shape. If they will not, put the road figure in here and the page prints your real year rather than a hopeful one, and you have still learned something concrete about your policy that you did not know this morning. Ask what the reduced cover drops rather than only what it costs, because the answer should be the road exposure and not the fire, theft and weather, and if it drops those too then the saving is not a saving, it is the cover going away during the months the trailer is unattended. Ask about the switch back as well, since a policy you have to remember to reinstate is a policy you can forget to reinstate on the morning you hitch up.
Roadside and towing, contents, vacation liability, full-timer's cover, anything endorsed onto the policy. Total it from your own quote. The default is ours and a placeholder.
More
These are the lines that get waved through one at a time because each is small next to the premium, and then are the lines people are most surprised to discover they were paying for or, worse, were not. Two of them are worth a specific look. Roadside for a trailer is not the roadside you already have for the car: towing a broken trailer needs something that can tow a trailer, and a membership that covers your vehicle may quietly not cover the thing behind it. And the contents are rarely where owners think they are: what is inside the trailer may sit under the trailer's policy, or under your home policy, or under neither, and the way to find out is to ask the question in those words before you need the answer. If an agreed-value or replacement-cost endorsement is available and priced, this is the box it goes in, and it is the one add-on that changes the exposure figure below rather than the premium alone.
What you pay before the policy pays anything on a claim. The default is ours and a placeholder.
More
This is the first half of what you are actually exposed to, and it is the half people do remember, which is why it is the smaller half below. It is worth treating the deductible as a decision rather than as a setting you inherited from whoever set the policy up, because it is the one lever on this page that trades directly against the premium: raising it lowers what you pay every year and raises what you pay on a day that may never come. The test is not which number is bigger, it is whether you could write the cheque on short notice without unpicking something else, since a deductible you cannot cover is a policy you cannot use. Check whether comprehensive and collision carry different deductibles, because they often do and people usually quote themselves the lower one from memory.
What you would have to pay to stand where you are standing now, with a trailer. The default is ours and a placeholder.
More
Price the replacement rather than remembering the purchase, and make it the trailer you would actually end up with rather than the one on the invoice from years ago. That means what a comparable trailer is selling for right now, in the condition and length you would accept, plus the parts of the purchase that are not the trailer and would happen all over again: the tax and title on it, and the trip to go and get it, which the Scamp calculator on this site prices properly if you want it broken out. This box is not what you paid, it is not what you insured it for, and it is not what you think it is worth. It is the cost of the outcome you are insuring against, which is having a trailer again, and that version of the number is what makes the subtraction below mean anything.
The insurer's figure, not yours. Ask them. The default is ours and a placeholder, and the point of the box is that you go and replace it with their answer.
More
This is the box the page is built around, and it tends to be the one an owner first reaches for on the day they need it. It is worth being clear that it is obtainable ahead of that: ask your insurer what they would pay if the trailer were destroyed today and they can tell you, because it is their answer to give and it follows from the basis your policy is written on. Actual cash value pays what the trailer is worth now, which is what it has depreciated to and not what it would cost to replace. Agreed value pays a figure the two of you set in advance, which is only right if you set it recently. Replacement cost pays for a comparable trailer. Those are three different numbers on the same trailer and the same premium can be attached to any of them, which is exactly why comparing premiums across insurers without comparing this line is comparing the price of things that are not the same thing. Ask which basis you are on, ask what the figure is today, and put their answer here rather than your estimate of it.
Estimated cost
$970
  • The months you use it (road cover)$475
  • The months it sits stored$245
  • Cover added on top for the year$250
  • Total$970
See next steps →

Recommended next steps

Some links below are affiliate links. If you buy through them, Calcatrice may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. We only suggest tools that fit your result, and a company can't pay to show up here.

$700 to $1,600 a year is the usual shape: real cover on a real trailer, a storage season, and a few things endorsed on top. This is the band where the split matters more than the total. Look at how much of the year is road months and how much is stored months, because the stored half is the part you can still ask about, and then look away from the premium entirely and at the exposure, which is where the money you have not thought about is sitting.

What this assumes, and where it could be wrong

Every one of these is a place the number could be off. They are here because you should be able to check our working, not because we are hedging.

THE PREMIUM IS THE NUMBER EVERYBODY SHOPS, AND IT IS THE SMALL ONE.
This is the whole page. At our defaults a year of cover is $970 and the exposure is $8,000, which is the deductible you know about plus a $7,000 gap between replacing the trailer and what the policy pays that you probably have not asked about. Those two numbers are not in the same league, and only one of them gets put side by side across insurers. So the shopping that owners do is real work aimed at the wrong figure: you can move the premium by a couple of hundred dollars with an afternoon of quotes, and move the exposure by thousands with one question about how the policy values the trailer. The premium is not unimportant, it is simply the part that is easy to see, and the easy part being visible is what makes the hard part invisible. The order this page wants is: find out what they would pay, then argue about what it costs.
The year has two halves, and a single annual quote hides that from you.
A trailer being towed and a trailer sitting in a yard are different risks wearing the same policy. On the road it is exposed to traffic and to your own tow, and the liability half of the cover is doing the work you are paying for. Parked for the winter it is exposed to fire, hail, theft and whatever falls on it, and the liability half is doing very little. At our defaults that is $95 a month against $35 a month, which is the difference between a year of $1,140 and the road-and-stored split this page prints. The page is not promising you that saving, because whether your insurer prices the halves separately is theirs to answer and not ours to assert. What the page is doing is putting the question in your hand, since a reader who has only ever seen one annual number has never had a reason to ask. If the answer is no, put the road figure in both boxes and you have your real year, which is worth having too. What is not the move is cancelling cover for the winter: that saves a little during precisely the months nobody is looking at the trailer, and it can break a lapse condition if there is a loan on it.
A payout is not a replacement, and the difference has a name you can ask about.
The word people carry around is covered, and it does a lot of quiet damage, because covered is not a number. What the policy pays for a destroyed trailer follows from the valuation basis it is written on, and the same premium can sit on top of any of them. Actual cash value pays what the trailer has depreciated to. Agreed value pays a figure you and the insurer set in advance, which is only right if you set it recently and revisit it. Replacement cost pays for a comparable trailer. At our defaults that gap is $7,000, and it is not a penalty or a trick: it is the policy doing exactly what it says, against a reader who never read which of the three they had. This is the most obtainable expensive fact on this page. One question, asked today, in these words: if it were destroyed tomorrow, what would you pay me, and what basis is that on. Then put their answer in the box rather than your estimate of it.
No typical premium and no rate per thousand, because those are the two we have not measured.
They are also the two you would most like us to print, so it is worth saying plainly why they are absent. A premium is underwritten against your trailer, your state, your record, your storage and your claim history, on a day, and the spread across owners is wide enough that any single figure we published would be wrong for nearly everyone reading it. That would be worse than an empty box rather than better than one, because a benchmark stops the reader asking: an owner who has been told what this typically costs has a number to feel reassured or annoyed by, and no reason to make the call that would get them their actual figure. The same goes for a rate against the trailer's value, which looks more scientific and is the same guess with a denominator attached. What this page gives you instead is the shape of the arithmetic and the questions that fill it, and those hold regardless of what your quote turns out to say.

This ledger is cover, and it is not ownership. What is above is a year of insurance and what you are exposed to underneath it. It does not include storage fees, upkeep, registration, or the value the trailer gives up between now and when you sell it, and across a few years those are not a footnote next to the premium. The Airstream calculator on this site prices ownership across the years and divides it by the nights you sleep in it, and the arithmetic there works for any travel trailer, so run your figures there if the question you are really asking is what the trailer costs you rather than what covering it costs you. Note too that the exposure figure is what you are out on a total loss, which is the clean case: a partial claim is its own arithmetic, and a claim you make at all may move next year's premium, which is a cost this page does not try to predict.

Frequently asked questions

How much does travel trailer insurance cost?
The premium itself is an underwriter's quote against your trailer, your state, your record and where it sits when you are not using it, so this page leaves that figure to your insurer rather than inventing one to stand in for it. What the page adds is the two things a quote does not show you. The first is that your year has two halves: a trailer being towed and a trailer stored for the winter are different risks, and if you have only ever been quoted one annual number you have never been given a reason to ask whether the stored months could be priced differently. The second, and this is the one that matters, is that the premium is the small number. Put your figures into the form above and you get the year of cover next to what you would still be out on the day the trailer is gone. At our defaults that is $970 against $8,000, and the second figure is the one that tends to go unexamined until the day it lands.
What would my policy actually pay if the trailer were destroyed?
Ask your insurer, today, in roughly those words, and put their answer in the box above rather than your estimate of it. This is the most obtainable expensive fact on this page and it is theirs to give, because it follows from the basis your policy is written on. Actual cash value pays what the trailer has depreciated to, which on a trailer of any age is a long way below what replacing it would cost you. Agreed value pays a figure the two of you settled in advance, which is only the right number if you set it recently rather than at purchase and then forgot it. Replacement cost pays for a comparable trailer. Those are three different outcomes attached to the same word, covered, and the same premium can sit on any of them, which is why comparing quotes across insurers without comparing this line is comparing prices of things that are not the same thing. At our defaults the gap between replacing the trailer and the settlement is $7,000, and it is not a trick: it is the policy doing what it says to a reader who did not know which of the three they had.
Should I drop or cancel the cover while it is in storage?
Those are two different questions and they land in different places. Asking to have the stored months priced separately is worth doing and it is what the two monthly boxes above are for: parked, the trailer is not on a road, so the liability half of the policy is doing very little while fire, hail and theft carry on, and many insurers can price that asymmetry if the question is put to them. Ask what the reduced cover drops rather than only what it costs, because the answer should be the road exposure rather than the weather and the theft. Cancelling outright is a different move and a poorer one. It saves a small amount during exactly the months when nobody is looking at the trailer, which is when a tree, a fire or a thief has the most room to work, and if there is a loan on the trailer a lapse can breach the lender's requirement and get cover force-placed on you at a price you did not choose. There is also the forgetting: a policy you have to remember to switch back on is a policy you can fail to switch back on, on the morning you hitch up and drive off.
Does my car insurance already cover the trailer while I am towing it?
Partly, and the part it does not cover is the expensive part, which is why the answer catches people out. Your auto liability commonly extends to a trailer while it is attached, which handles the damage you do to somebody else, and that is genuinely useful cover you may already have. What it typically does not do is pay for the trailer itself: damage to your own trailer, and theft or weather while it is parked and detached, sit outside the auto policy, and those are the losses that would actually cost you the trailer. So the question to put to your insurer is not whether the trailer is covered, which invites a yes that means less than it sounds, but what happens to the trailer in three specific cases: hitched and in a collision that is your fault, detached in a storage yard when it burns, and detached at a site when somebody takes it. The three answers tell you what you are carrying and what you are assuming. Then price the gap, put the figures above, and note the deductible in the ledger may be a different number from the one on your car.

Related calculators