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Equipment Payments Trailers & RVs

How much does a Casita trailer cost?

Work out whether to order a new Casita or buy the used one that is for sale today, by carrying both routes out to the same finish line instead of comparing the two prices people quote. Those prices are not comparable and that is the whole trouble: a used trailer's asking price already includes whatever the first owner ticked on the build sheet, while a new trailer's base price includes none of what you are about to tick. Add the trip to go and get it, which exists on both routes and gets priced at zero on both, and the state's cut, which runs on the price and so grows the gap rather than cancelling it. Put in your own figures and see the two landed numbers, the gap between them, and how many months of waiting that gap is buying you.

§ 01 Your numbers

Change anything. The answer updates as you type.

The trailer at the layout and length you intend to order, before the options below. The default is ours and editable, and the factory's figure for your build is the figure that counts.
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Get this for the exact layout you would actually order rather than for the entry configuration, because they are different trailers and the gap between them is not small. Ask what the quoted figure already includes before you hold it against anything, since where the factory draws the line between the base build and an option is a decision somebody made rather than a law of nature, and a quote that looks higher may simply have more of the sheet folded into it. This matters twice as much on this page as it would on its own, because you are about to compare this figure against a used trailer whose price has the entire previous owner's sheet baked into it. If the two quotes you are comparing include different amounts of trailer, the comparison is measuring the accounting rather than the trailers.
Everything you add to the base build. Total it from your own sheet. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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This box is the reason the comparison on this page exists, so fill it from the actual sheet rather than from memory. A built-to-order trailer is configured line by line, and the trap is structural rather than a failure of anybody's willpower: each option is small next to the base price, so each one clears the bar on its own, and the sheet is long, and nothing on it ever shows you the running total. Then notice what this box does to the other column. The used trailer you are comparing against has a filled-in version of this same sheet already inside its asking price, paid for by somebody else and handed to you at whatever the years have done to it. So a used trailer asking more than the new base is not necessarily asking a premium. It may be asking less, for a trailer with more on it, and this box is where that reverses.
Fuel, wear and any nights on the road to go and tow it home. The default is ours, a placeholder, and it assumes a long way.
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Factory-direct means the trailer does not come to you: somebody drives to it, and that somebody is you. Price the round trip rather than the distance, because you drive out unloaded and come back towing, and the return leg costs more per mile since you are pulling a box through the air. Put wear in alongside the fuel and put any nights on the road in too, since the tyres and the beds do not care that the trip felt like a holiday. Then, before you decide this line is unavoidable, go and get a delivery quote and hold it against this number. A quote is not expensive or cheap on its own, it is expensive or cheap against the trip it saves you, and you cannot judge it until this box has a figure in it. The Scamp page linked below breaks this journey out into its parts if you want it priced properly.
The asking price on the specific used trailer you would buy. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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Use a real listing rather than a remembered impression of what these go for, because this page compares two trailers and a vague figure on one side makes the answer vague on both. Write down what is actually on it while you are looking, since that list is what you are buying and it is the thing that makes this price comparable to a new base plus your own sheet. Then treat the asking price as the seller's opening position rather than the trailer's value: what matters is what it sells for, and you find that by watching what comparable ones close at rather than what they list at. Age and condition belong in the next box rather than this one, so that you can see what you are paying for the trailer separately from what you are paying to put it right.
Fuel, wear and nights for the trip to the seller. The default is ours and editable, and it may well be two trips.
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A used trailer is wherever its seller happens to live, which is rarely nearer than the factory and is sometimes very much further. Price it honestly and price it as it will happen: for many buyers this is two journeys rather than one, because you go and look at it before you agree to buy it, and going to look at something you have already decided to buy is how people end up buying a trailer with a soft floor. If the seller is far enough that a first trip is genuinely impractical, that is a real argument for paying somebody local to inspect it, and that fee belongs in the next box. The one thing worth avoiding is writing a small number here because the trip feels like part of the fun rather than part of the price.
An inspection, and the work you already know it needs. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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This is the box that makes the comparison fair, because the new route's column has a warranty in it and this one does not. Start with the inspection, which on a molded fiberglass trailer is largely a hunt for water: the seams, the windows, the roof fittings and the floor around them, which is where a leak shows up years after it started. Then price what you already know you would do, and separate that from what you suspect. Tyres and bearings are the usual first two on a trailer that has sat, since both age out on the calendar rather than on the mileage, and both are cheap next to what they cost when they fail on a highway. Fridges, water systems and anything with a seal are the ones that decide whether this number stays small. If you cannot get a look at the underside and the floor, then the honest figure here is larger than you want it to be, and that uncertainty is itself part of what the used route costs.
What your state takes when you register it, as a percentage. The default is ours and a placeholder, because this one is entirely local.
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This is in the calculator because it runs on the price, which means it makes the gap between the two routes bigger rather than cancelling out, and a comparison that quietly dropped it would understate whichever route is cheaper. It is set by where you bring the trailer home to rather than where you bought it, so buying in one state and registering in another does not usually move it the way people hope. Look up your own rate, because the pieces vary in name and in size: sales or use tax on the purchase, a title fee, and a registration fee that may run on weight or on value or on a flat schedule. Our default is a stand-in and is almost certainly wrong for you. If your state charges a flat fee rather than a percentage, work out what that is as a share of your price and put that in, or set this to zero and add the fee to both columns yourself.
The lead time on a new order, as the factory quotes it today. Ask them. The default is ours and a placeholder, and this page does not put a price on it.
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This page asks for the wait rather than telling you what it is, and that is deliberate. Lead times move, they move a lot, and a figure we published would be treated as a fact long after it stopped being one. So ask the factory, and ask at the point of ordering rather than at the point of enquiring, since the queue you join is the one that exists on the day you join it. What the calculator does with it is report it rather than price it: you get the money gap, and you get what that gap works out at per month of waiting saved, and then the judgement is yours, because what a month of not having the trailer is worth depends on whether it is a month with a trip in it. A wait that crosses a season is a different thing from a wait that ends in February, and only you know which one you are looking at.
What each route costs you, landed
$38,940
  • Ordering a new one, landed (trailer, sheet, tax, the trip to fetch it)$39,790
  • Buying the used one, landed (asking, tax, the trip, putting it right)$38,940
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Inside about $1,500 either way the money has stopped deciding, and the useful thing this page can tell you is that it has. A gap this size is smaller than the uncertainty already sitting in the repairs box and in whether the asking price is what the trailer sells for, so treating it as a result would be reading noise. Choose on the other axes instead: the wait and where it lands in your calendar, the warranty against somebody else's history, and whether the used one is configured the way you would have configured it or merely the way it came.

What this assumes, and where it could be wrong

Every one of these is a place the number could be off. They are here because you should be able to check our working, not because we are hedging.

THE TWO PRICES PEOPLE COMPARE ARE NOT COMPARABLE, AND FINISHING THE SUM CAN REVERSE THE ANSWER.
This is the whole page. A used trailer's asking price already contains the first owner's build sheet: whatever they ticked is on the trailer and inside the number. A new trailer's base price contains none of what you are going to tick, because you have not ticked it yet. So the buyer who puts a used asking price beside a new base price is comparing a finished trailer against an unfinished one and reading the difference as a premium. At our defaults the used one asks $34,000 against a $32,000 base, which looks like $2,000 more for a trailer that is not even new. Carry both routes out and the new order lands at $39,790 while the used one lands at $38,940, so the $2,000 premium is an $850 saving. Nothing about either trailer changed. The comparison simply got finished, and it pointed the other way.
The trip exists on both routes, and gets priced at zero on both.
These are collected rather than delivered, and that is true whichever route you take. A new one is at the factory and somebody drives to it. A used one is wherever its seller lives, which is rarely nearer and is often further, and for many buyers it is two trips rather than one, because looking at it before you agree to buy it is the difference between an inspection and a hope. At our defaults that is $1,100 on the new route and $700 on the used one, and the reason both boxes exist is that this money is invisible to almost everybody: it does not look like part of the purchase, it looks like a road trip, and road trips are not what people budget against a trailer. Two things follow. The return leg costs more per mile than the outbound one, because you are towing. And you cannot judge a delivery quote until these boxes have figures in them, since a quote is only expensive or cheap against the trip it replaces.
The wait is reported and never priced, because what a month is worth is a fact about your summer.
Ordering means waiting, and the wait is a real part of what you are choosing rather than a footnote on it, since it is the difference between a season in the trailer and a season without one. The page handles it in two deliberate moves. It asks you for the wait rather than publishing one, because lead times move and a figure we printed would be treated as a fact long after it stopped being true, so the honest place for it is a box you fill from the factory on the day you ask. Then it divides the money gap by those months and stops. That per-month figure is not a valuation of your time and it is not advice. It is the price tag on the waiting, put in front of you so you can decide whether your months are worth it, and the answer genuinely differs between a wait that ends before the summer and a wait that eats it. Notice too that the wait is only a cost on one side: the used trailer is available the day you agree to buy it, which is most of what the used route is actually selling.
The used route buys a trailer and a risk, which is what the repairs box is for.
The new column has a warranty in it and the used column does not, so a comparison that stopped at the two prices would be quietly unfair to the new one. That is what the inspection and repairs box is doing: it is where the risk gets a number. On a molded fiberglass trailer the hunt is mostly for water, at the seams, the windows, the roof fittings and the floor around them, because a leak shows up years after it started and it shows up in the floor. Tyres and bearings are the usual known-work items on anything that has sat, since both age out on the calendar rather than on the mileage. The honest part is the uncertainty rather than the estimate: if you cannot get a proper look at the underside and the floor, the right figure for that box is larger than you would like, and if you can, it may be small. Either way it belongs in the column rather than in the back of your mind, because a number you did not write down is a number you set to zero.
Anything identical on both routes is left out on purpose, and that includes some real money.
The test this page applies to every line is whether it differs between the two routes. Tax is in, because it runs on the price, so it scales with whichever trailer costs more and widens the gap rather than cancelling it. A hitch and wiring are out, because your vehicle needs the same hardware whichever trailer you tow with it, so the line moves both columns by the same amount and decides nothing. Insurance, storage, upkeep and what the trailer gives up in value while you own it are out for the same reason. None of that is free and across a few years it is not a footnote either. It is simply not part of THIS decision, which is which of two trailers to buy, and mixing it in would make the comparison harder to read without changing which way it points. When you have picked one, the Airstream calculator on this site prices the years afterwards and the arithmetic is the same for any travel trailer. Finance charges are absent here too: this is what each route costs, not what a loan on it costs.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a Casita trailer cost?
The trailer itself is a factory quote against the layout and the options you tick, so this page leaves that figure to the factory rather than inventing one to stand in for it. What the page adds is the comparison the price alone cannot give you, which is whether to order a new one or buy the used one that is for sale today. Those two routes finish in different places than their prices suggest, because a used asking price already contains the first owner's build sheet while a new base price contains none of yours, and because both routes carry a trip to go and collect the trailer that almost nobody budgets for. Put your own figures in the form above and you get both landed totals, the gap between them, and what that gap works out at per month of waiting saved. At our defaults the new order lands at $39,790 and the used one at $38,940, which is the opposite of what the two asking prices imply.
Why does the used one cost more than a new base price?
Usually because it is not the same trailer, and the comparison is being made a step too early. A used Casita is a finished trailer: whatever the first owner ticked is on it and inside the number they are asking. A new base price is an unfinished trailer, quoted before you add the things you are going to add, because you have not added them yet. So putting one beside the other compares a trailer with a build sheet against a trailer without one, and the difference reads as a premium when a good part of it is just the sheet. At our defaults the used one asks $2,000 more than the new base, and once both routes are carried out to the driveway it lands $850 below the new order. There is a second reason worth naming: what a trailer is asking is not what it sells for. Watch what comparable ones close at rather than what they list at, and the picture usually moves. The fix for both is the same, which is to finish the sum before you judge the number.
Is waiting for a new one worth it?
This page gives you the price of the wait and stops there, on purpose. You get the gap between the two landed routes and what it comes to per month of waiting the used route saves you, and then the judgement is yours, because what a month without the trailer is worth is a fact about your year rather than a number anybody can publish. What is worth thinking about alongside the money is the shape of the wait rather than its length: a wait that ends in February and a wait that eats a summer are very different purchases even when they are the same number of months, so ask the factory where in the calendar you would land rather than only how long it is. On the other side, ordering buys you a trailer configured for how you actually intend to use it, with a warranty and no history, and a used one buys you availability and somebody else's decisions. If the gap is small in either direction, then the money is not what is choosing, and it is cleaner to admit that and choose on the wait and the risk instead.
What should I check before buying a used one?
Water first, and then everything that ages on the calendar. On a molded fiberglass trailer the shell itself tends to outlast the fittings, so the hunt is at the joins: the seams, the windows, the roof fittings, the vents, and above all the floor around and under them, because a leak announces itself in the floor years after it started. Get underneath if you possibly can, and if you cannot, price that uncertainty into the repairs box above rather than hoping. Then the calendar items, which are the ones that catch buyers on the way home rather than on the driveway: tyres age out regardless of how few miles they have done, and bearings want repacking on a trailer that has sat. After that, anything with a seal or a pump, so the fridge, the water system and the water heater. Take the trip to look before the trip to buy, because a buyer who has already driven six hours to collect a trailer is not in a position to walk away from it, and price both trips above. If distance makes a first visit impractical, pay somebody local to inspect it and put that fee in the same box.

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