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Equipment Payments Trailers & RVs

How much does an AeroVault trailer cost?

Work out what an AeroVault costs you against the conventional enclosed hauler you would otherwise buy, counting the fuel as well as the purchase. Every other trailer calculator on this site stops at the driveway, which is fine for a trailer sold on its box or its layout and wrong for one sold on its shape. The case for an aerodynamic trailer is that it is cheaper to pull, and that is a claim you can settle with arithmetic instead of adjectives: it earns back a slice of its premium on every towed mile, and whether the slices add up to the premium depends on how many miles there are. Put in what each trailer lands at, what you think each is worth when you are done, the miles you tow a year, the fuel economy you get behind each one, and what fuel costs you, and see which trailer is actually cheaper over the years you keep it.

§ 01 Your numbers

Change anything. The answer updates as you type.

What it costs to have one on your driveway: the factory's quote for the model and configuration you want, plus tax and title, plus getting it home. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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Use a landed figure rather than a bare quote, and build the figure on the other side the same way, because the comparison below is only worth reading if both columns were assembled by the same rules. Landed means the trailer, plus what your state charges to register it, plus the real cost of physically collecting it, which is money rather than an afterthought on a trailer picked up from a factory instead of delivered by a dealer down the road. Get the quote for the model and configuration you would actually order rather than the entry one, because those are different trailers at different prices. This page publishes no price for this trailer or any other: the number above is a placeholder so the calculator has something to draw, and replacing it with your own quote is the first thing to do on this page.
In dollars, at the end of the years you keep it. Your figure, not ours. The default is a placeholder and this page publishes no resale figure for any trailer.
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This box and the matching one below it can carry the result between them, which is exactly why they are boxes rather than percentages we picked. You will find confident claims about what these trailers hold and very little measured underneath them, so instead of repeating somebody's number we hand you the lever and tell you it is a lever. You can do better than any average we could print anyway: look up what the model you are considering, at the age you plan to sell it, is actually selling for right now, and use what buyers paid rather than what sellers asked, because those two figures differ and only one of them is a price. Do that on both sides rather than only the trailer you are rooting for. The common failure here is a carefully researched figure for the trailer you want and folklore for the other one, and it produces a confident answer about nothing.
The same figure for the real alternative: quote or asking price, plus tax and title, plus getting it home. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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Put in the trailer you would genuinely buy rather than a bargain-priced thing with a similar shape, because a comparison against a trailer you would not actually own tells you nothing you can act on. Specify it honestly against the AeroVault too: if you would order the conventional trailer with a finished interior, heavier axles, a spare and a winch, those belong in this figure, because some of what looks like a price gap between two trailers is a specification gap between them. The enclosed trailer calculator on this site breaks that build out line by line and is worth finishing before you carry a number over here. Build this figure landed, the same way you built the one above.
In dollars, at the same point in time. Your figure again. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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The same warning as the box above, with one addition. What each trailer gives back at the end is doing more work in this comparison than most readers expect, because it is what turns two prices into two costs, and the two sides here start far enough apart that a modest change in either figure moves the answer. A trailer that holds a high share of its price hands much of the purchase back to you and therefore consumed very little; one that holds a low share consumed most of what you paid for it. That is the mechanism by which an expensive thing can be the cheaper thing, and it works independently of anything the fuel line does. If you cannot find a real comparable sale for either trailer, the honest move is to run this page twice with different figures here and read the distance between the two answers as the uncertainty you are carrying.
The period both columns are measured across, and the multiplier on the towed miles below. The default is ours.
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This box matters here for a different reason than it does on a durability comparison. It is not standing in for how long either trailer survives, because both columns assume you keep one trailer for the whole period and sell it at the end. What it does is decide how many towed miles exist, and the towed miles are what repay the premium. So a short holding period does not weaken the aerodynamic case in the way it weakens a durability case, it simply gives the case less to work with. Be honest rather than aspirational, and note that the answer people give is rarely the one that happens: plenty of buyers who intended to keep a trailer indefinitely sold it within four years because life moved rather than because the trailer disappointed. If you are new to towing, the shorter figure is the realistic one, and it is worth seeing what this page says at that figure before committing to the longer one.
Towing miles, not total driving miles. The default is ours and it is the number this page turns on.
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This is the single input the whole comparison hangs from, so it is worth getting right rather than guessing generously. Count the miles with the trailer actually behind you: the round trip to the events you go to, times the number you go to, and leave the rest out. Deadhead miles to collect the trailer from storage count. Every mile you drive the tow vehicle without the trailer does not, because the trailer changes nothing about those. The failure mode is predictable and it runs in one direction. People price a trailer against the season they are imagining rather than the season they had, and an aerodynamic premium priced against imaginary miles repays itself beautifully on paper and not at all in the driveway. If you towed last year, use last year. If you did not, use the number you would be embarrassed to have overstated, then run the page again at your optimistic figure and look at both answers.
What your tow vehicle returns with this trailer behind it. Your figure. The default is a placeholder and this page publishes no towing fuel economy for any trailer.
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This box and the one below it are the aerodynamic case, expressed as the two numbers it actually reduces to, and handing you a pair of figures here would have been us settling the argument the page exists to let you settle. Understand what these depend on before you fill them in, because it is more than the trailer. Towing economy is a product of the tow vehicle, the terrain, the crosswind and above all the speed, and the drag penalty climbs steeply with speed, which means the same trailer behind the same truck returns materially different figures at 60 and at 75. So a figure quoted by somebody with a different vehicle driving different roads at a different speed is not transferable to you, however honestly they reported it. The good news is that this is measurable rather than arguable. If you can borrow, rent or ride behind either trailer, fill up, tow a hundred miles of the roads you actually use at the speed you actually drive, and fill up again. One afternoon of that beats every opinion you will read.
The same measurement behind the other trailer. Your figure again. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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Measure or estimate both of these the same way, at the same speed, on the same kind of road, or the gap between them is an artefact of your method rather than a property of the trailers. The gap is what matters here, not either figure on its own: two readers who tow at different speeds can disagree completely about both numbers and still get the same answer out of this page, provided each of them measured both trailers consistently. Be careful of one asymmetry in particular. It is easy to find an enthusiastic figure for the trailer you are considering and to pair it with a pessimistic one for the alternative, and because this page multiplies the gap by tens of thousands of miles, a modest thumb on the scale here becomes thousands of dollars of fake saving in the result. If you are estimating rather than measuring, estimate both conservatively and let the page tell you whether the case survives that.
Averaged across the years you keep the trailer, not today's pump price. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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This scales the entire fuel side of the comparison, so it scales the aerodynamic case with it: at half this figure the saving is half as large and repays half as much of the premium. Use what you expect to pay on average across the whole holding period rather than what the pump said this morning, and remember that towing is done on the road rather than at the low-priced station near your home, and often in a vehicle that wants the more expensive grade. If you have no view on where fuel prices go, that is a reasonable position and the practical response is to run this page at a low figure and a high one. If the answer is the same at both, fuel price is not what is deciding your purchase and you can stop thinking about it. If it flips, you have learned that your trailer decision is really a bet on fuel prices, which is worth knowing before you make it.
Only if the conventional trailer needs more vehicle than you already have and the lighter one does not. Leave it at zero unless that is genuinely your situation. The default is ours and it is zero on purpose.
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When this applies it is the largest line in the comparison, larger than a decade of fuel, and it is invisible in every discussion of trailer prices because it is not a trailer cost. When it does not apply it is zero and belongs nowhere near the result, which is why we start it there rather than assuming a truck purchase into your driveway. Work out whether it applies before you fill it in, and do it against the door jamb rather than the brochure: find your vehicle's towing rating and its payload rating, and check the loaded weight of each trailer against both, remembering that the loaded weight is the trailer plus the car plus the tools and fuel and spares you put in with it, which is a great deal more than the empty weight anyone quotes. If both trailers clear comfortably, this is zero. If the heavier one does not clear, the honest price of that trailer includes the vehicle that could pull it, and the figure to enter is the extra over what you would otherwise have spent rather than the whole price of a truck.
What each trailer costs you across the same years and the same towed miles
$30,308
  • The AeroVault, bought and towed, across the whole period$30,308
  • The conventional hauler, same years and same towed miles$25,000
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Across your holding period the AeroVault costs more than $2,500 extra, which usually means one of two things and they have different answers. If your towed mileage is modest, that is the arithmetic working correctly: a saving earned per mile needs miles, and yours has not been given enough of them to finish the job. If your mileage is high and the gap is still wide, look at the resale boxes, because a premium trailer that gives back no more of its price than a cheap one has no mechanism left to repay anything. Either way this is the result that says buy the conventional trailer and put the difference toward using it.

What this assumes, and where it could be wrong

Every one of these is a place the number could be off. They are here because you should be able to check our working, not because we are hedging.

THE STICKER GAP IS SETTLED IN AN AFTERNOON AND THE FUEL GAP IS SETTLED OVER A DECADE, WHICH IS WHY COMPARING THEM AT THE DEALER GOES WRONG.
This is the whole page. Two trailers sit in front of you, one costs a great deal more, and that difference is real money on a day you can name. The case for the expensive one is that it hands a slice of the difference back on every towed mile, and those miles are spread across years you have not lived yet, so the two halves of the decision are never visible at the same moment. Putting them on one page is the entire contribution here. At our defaults the fuel line does real work: 40,000 towed miles at 13 mpg against 10 mpg is $12,308 of fuel against $16,000, a saving of $3,692. That is a large number and it is the aerodynamic case, stated in dollars instead of adjectives. It is also smaller than the $9,000 of extra value the expensive trailer consumes over the same decade, so at our placeholder figures the AeroVault lands $5,308 behind across ten years, which is $531 a year. Both of those results are honest and neither is a verdict on the trailer, because every figure that produced them is a placeholder we invented so the page had something to draw. Put your own in.
The towed miles carry this page, and they are the input people overstate.
The saving is earned per mile, so the mileage box is the one that decides whether a premium repays itself, and it is the box most likely to be filled in with an aspiration. The pattern is consistent and worth naming plainly: people buy against the season they are imagining rather than the season they had. A trailer bought for twelve events a year and used for four has not become a worse trailer, but the arithmetic that justified it has quietly lost two thirds of its input, and nothing on the driveway tells you that happened. So count the miles with the trailer actually behind you, use last year if you have a last year, and if you do not, enter the figure you would be embarrassed to have overstated. Then run the page again at the optimistic number. The distance between those two answers is the real uncertainty in this purchase, and it is usually larger than the gap the page prints, which is the most useful thing this calculator can tell you.
The two fuel economy figures are yours, and this page publishes neither, because they depend on more than the trailer.
Towing economy is a product of the tow vehicle, the terrain, the crosswind and above all the speed, and the drag penalty climbs steeply with speed, so the same trailer behind the same truck returns materially different figures at 60 and at 75. A number quoted by somebody with a different vehicle on different roads at a different speed is not transferable to you however honestly they reported it, and a number we printed would be read as a measurement and would silently settle a decision worth tens of thousands of dollars. So we refuse to print one. What matters for this page is the gap between the two figures rather than either alone: two readers who tow at different speeds can disagree about both numbers and still get the same answer, provided each measured both trailers consistently. And this is measurable rather than arguable, which sets it apart from almost everything else people argue about here. Fill up, tow a hundred miles of your own roads at your own speed, fill up again. One afternoon beats every opinion you will read.
Nothing here is discounted for time, and no finance charge sits in either column.
A dollar spent in year nine counts the same as a dollar spent today, which quietly flatters the column whose spending comes later. That is the fuel, and the fuel is the expensive trailer's argument, so this simplification leans gently toward the AeroVault rather than away from it. Worth knowing when the gap the page prints is narrow. No interest is in either column either, and that leans the other way: the loan would be larger on the expensive side, so a reader who would borrow for the trailer is looking at a comparison that understates the premium. If you would finance either purchase, price the loan separately and add it to that side by hand, because the rate and the term at these sums can move the answer further than the fuel does. The trailer insurance is absent from both columns too, and it is one of the few carrying costs that genuinely tracks the value of the thing insured, which again runs against the expensive trailer.
The tow vehicle line is zero by default, and when it is not zero it is larger than everything else here.
A light trailer can mean the vehicle already on your driveway is enough, and a heavier one can mean it is not, and when that is true the cost of the vehicle that could pull the heavier trailer belongs in the comparison even though it is not a trailer cost. It is also not the situation most buyers are in, and defaulting it to anything above zero would have asserted a truck purchase into a driveway we cannot see. So you decide whether it applies. Do it against the door jamb rather than the brochure: find your vehicle's towing rating and its payload rating, and check the loaded weight of each trailer against both, where loaded means the trailer plus the car plus the tools and fuel and spares that go in with it, which is a great deal more than any empty weight quoted at you. If both trailers clear comfortably, leave this at zero. If the heavier one does not clear, enter the extra over what you would otherwise have spent rather than the whole price of a truck, since you would have owned some vehicle either way.

Both columns assume you buy one trailer at the start, keep it for the whole period and sell it at the end, with no replacement on either side. That is a deliberate difference from the Oliver calculator on this site, which prices a durability premium by letting the cheaper trailer be replaced partway through. This page is not about which trailer survives longer, it is about which is cheaper to pull, so replacements would have imported a second argument into a comparison built for one. If you believe one of these trailers would need replacing inside your holding period and the other would not, this page cannot express that and the Oliver calculator can. Storage, maintenance, tyres and registration renewals are absent from both columns as well, on the grounds that they run on the calendar rather than on the trailer you chose, and the Airstream calculator on this site prices that carry properly if you want it.

Frequently asked questions

How much does an AeroVault trailer cost?
The trailer itself is a factory quote against a model and a configuration, so this page leaves that figure to the factory rather than inventing one to stand in for it. What this page adds is the figure a quote cannot give you, which is what the trailer costs you once the towing is counted. That matters more here than on an ordinary trailer, because the case for this one is a case about how it pulls, and how something pulls is fuel burned per mile rather than a feature on a list. Put in what each trailer lands at, what you think each is worth when you are done, the miles you tow a year, the fuel economy you get behind each, and what fuel costs you. At our placeholder figures the fuel saving comes to $3,692 across 40,000 towed miles and the expensive trailer still lands $5,308 behind across ten years, because it consumed $9,000 more in value than the alternative did. Change the mileage and that result moves further than any price on the page moves it.
Does an aerodynamic trailer actually save enough fuel to be worth it?
That depends on two numbers you have not entered yet, which is why the page asks for them rather than answering. The first is the gap in fuel economy between the two trailers behind your vehicle at your speed, and the second is how many miles you tow. Neither is a property of the trailer alone. Towing economy is decided by the tow vehicle, the terrain, the crosswind and above all the speed, with the drag penalty climbing steeply as speed rises, which is why the same trailer behind the same truck returns different figures on different trips and why quoted numbers travel poorly between owners. The useful thing is that the saving compounds per mile while the premium is paid once, so the whole question is whether you have enough miles to finish the job. A high-mileage tower can repay a large premium from fuel alone. Somebody towing to four events a year cannot, and no amount of arguing about drag changes that, which is the finding this page exists to make visible before the money moves.
Why does the calculator sometimes say the expensive trailer is the cheaper one?
Because a purchase price is not a cost, and two separate mechanisms can close the gap between these trailers. The first is the one everybody discusses: fuel, earned back per towed mile, which grows without limit as the mileage grows. The second gets discussed far less and is often larger. What a trailer costs you is what you paid less what comes back when you sell it, so a trailer that holds a high share of its price consumed very little of what you handed over, while a cheaper one that holds a low share consumed most of it. Those two mechanisms are independent, and stacked together across a long holding period with real mileage they can close a wide sticker gap and then reverse it. Add the tow vehicle line, in the specific case where the heavier trailer needs more vehicle than you own and the lighter one does not, and the reversal can be decisive. Shorten the holding period or cut the towed miles and all three weaken at once.
What is not in this comparison?
Several real things, and they do not all lean the same way. Nothing is discounted for time, so a dollar of fuel spent in year nine counts as a dollar spent today, which flatters the fuel side and therefore the expensive trailer. No finance charge is in either column, and the loan would be larger on the expensive side, so that leans the other way. Insurance is absent from both, and it tends to track the value of the thing insured, which again runs against the premium trailer. Storage, maintenance, tyres and registration renewals are out of both columns because they run on the calendar rather than on which trailer you chose. Neither column contains a replacement: both assume one trailer bought at the start and sold at the end, so if you think one of these would need replacing inside your holding period, that is a different comparison and the Oliver calculator on this site is built for it. And the tow vehicle appears only if you put it there, which you should do only after checking the loaded weight of each trailer against your own vehicle's towing and payload ratings on the door jamb.

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