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Equipment Payments Trailers & RVs

How much does a Jumping Jack trailer cost?

Work out what a Jumping Jack actually costs as the rig you are picturing, rather than the advertised deck price. It is a folding tent trailer, which means the deck tows fine on its own and the tent unfolds off the top of it, so the tent and the overland kit are not baked into the shell the way they are on a caravan. They are separate choices, priced one at a time, and each is small next to the deck while the sheet is long. Put in the factory's quote for the deck you want, the tent size, the options you have ticked, freight to get it to you, the tax and registration where you live, and a hitch if your vehicle still needs one, and see the landed figure and how far it sits above the deck.

§ 01 Your numbers

Change anything. The answer updates as you type.

The bare folding trailer at the deck length you want, before the tent and the options below. The default is ours and editable, and the factory's figure for your build is the one that matters.
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Get this figure for the exact deck length you intend to order rather than for the entry size, because the two are different trailers and the gap between them is not small. Length is the fork that moves this line hardest, and it moves more than the money: a longer deck carries more toys and a bigger tent, and it also pushes on what your vehicle needs to be rated for and where you can turn it around on a trail. Ask what the quoted figure already includes before you compare it against anything, since the line between the base deck and an option is a decision the factory made rather than a law of nature, and a quote that looks higher may simply have more of the sheet folded into it. If you are cross-shopping new against used, run this page twice: a used one skips the wait and starts with less value left to give up, and the tent on it has already spent some of its life.
The tent that folds off the deck, at the size you choose. This is the line that turns the deck into a camper. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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This is the box that a folding tent trailer has and a hard-sided one does not, and it is the reason the advertised deck price is not the camper price. The tent is a real fork: the size sets how many people sleep in it and it is coupled to the deck length, so a bigger tent tends to need a longer deck under it, which is worth pricing as one decision rather than two. It is also a soft good rather than a shell, so unlike a plywood cabin it wears, and a tent has a life that a deck does not. That does not belong in this acquisition total, but it belongs in your head when you weigh a used trailer whose tent has already been rained on for a decade. Fill this from the size you actually want, because the smallest tent is what makes the base number look small.
Everything you add beyond the deck and the tent: a kitchen, bigger tyres and a lift, solar, an awning, a spare, racks. Total it from your own sheet. The default is ours and a placeholder.
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This box is where the page expects you to surprise yourself, so fill it in from the actual sheet rather than from memory. A folding tent trailer is bought to go where a caravan cannot, and the kit that lets it do that is configured line by line: the trap is structural rather than anybody's fault, because each choice is small next to the deck price, so each one clears the bar on its own, and the sheet is long. Add them up before you order rather than after, because this is the part of the purchase you have the most control over and the part that quietly stops being controllable the moment the build starts. It is worth sorting your list into what changes where the trailer can go and what changes how it looks in the driveway, because both cost real money and only one of them is the reason you wanted this trailer.
What the factory or a dealer charges to ship it, or your own cost to go and collect it. The default is ours and a placeholder, because this one is about distance.
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A built-to-order trailer is somewhere else until it is yours, and closing that distance is a real line that the deck price does not carry. Get the freight quoted to your address rather than to the nearest city, because the last stretch is often where the number grows. If you are minded to collect it yourself instead, price that trip honestly as fuel and wear plus any nights on the road, and hold it against the freight quote, because a freight figure is not expensive or cheap in the abstract, it is expensive or cheap against what fetching it would have cost you. Either way the number belongs here rather than folded into the deck, where it would disappear and stop being a thing you can shop.
What your state charges to make it yours and put a plate on it. The default is ours and a placeholder, because this one is local.
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This line is set by where you bring the trailer home to rather than by where it was built, and it is genuinely worth ten minutes with your own state's rules before you take any total seriously, including this one. The pieces vary in name and in size: sales or use tax on the purchase, a title fee, a registration fee that may run on the trailer's weight or its value or a flat schedule, and in some places an annual renewal that keeps arriving long after the purchase is a memory. Buying in one state and registering in another does not usually move the tax the way people hope, since the charge tends to follow where the trailer lives. Put your own figure in here and treat our default as a stand-in that is probably wrong for you.
Parts and fitting, if the vehicle on your driveway is not ready to tow yet. Put zero if it already is. The default is ours and editable.
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A folding tent trailer packs down light and low, so the vehicle you already own may well pull it, which is exactly why this is a box here rather than a reason to buy a truck. What is usually missing is the hardware: a hitch, the wiring for the lights and brakes, and sometimes a brake controller inside the cab. Price the fitting along with the parts, because the two are quoted separately and the fitting is often the larger half. Do not read the presence of this box as the page telling you your car is fine. Fill it in, then go and check the loaded weight against your vehicle's actual rating, which is on the door jamb rather than in the brochure, and note that what you tow is the deck plus the toys plus the tent rather than the deck as it left the factory. The trailer hitch calculator prices this line properly if you want it broken out.
Estimated cost
$15,300
  • The trailer deck, as the factory quotes your length$7,000
  • The tent package and size$3,000
  • Off-road and overland options$3,000
  • Freight or delivery to get it to you$1,200
  • Tax, title and registration$700
  • Hitch and wiring on your vehicle$400
  • Total$15,300
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$9,000 to $18,000 landed is the usual shape of a new build: a real deck length, the tent size you wanted, an overland sheet with the things that let it go where you are taking it, freight, and your state's cut. This is the band where the split matters more than the total. Look at how much of your number is the bare deck and how much is the tent-and-kit, because the tent-and-kit is the part that decides what the trailer can actually do, and it is also the part most likely to grow one small option at a time until it is nearly the deck again.

What this assumes, and where it could be wrong

Every one of these is a place the number could be off. They are here because you should be able to check our working, not because we are hedging.

THE ADVERTISED FIGURE IS A BARE DECK, AND A BARE DECK IS NOT THE THING IN THE PHOTOS.
This is the whole page. A Jumping Jack is a folding tent trailer, and the number that travels from person to person is the deck: the flat off-road trailer before the tent folds off the top of it and before the kit that makes it worth owning goes on. That number is true about a trailer nobody camps in as it stands. At our defaults the deck is $7,000 and the tent-and-kit is $6,000, which puts the camper half within reach of the deck itself, and then freight and the plate land it at $15,300. None of the second half is hidden and none of it is exotic. It is just that the deck is the part that gets advertised and the tent and the options are the part you meet later, one line at a time, when the decision is already made. Adding them up before you order is the single most useful thing this page can do for you.
The tent and the kit are the part that makes it a camper, and they are priced one item at a time.
On a hard-sided towable the camper is the shell and you cannot un-buy it. On a folding tent trailer the deck would tow fine as a utility trailer, and the tent and the overland kit are bolted and zipped onto it, so they are genuine choices rather than a fixed price, and at our defaults they are $6,000 against a $7,000 deck. That is the part you have the most control over and the part that gets waved through, because each choice is small next to the deck and the sheet is long and nothing on it asks you to look at the running total. Total your own sheet before you order, and split it into what changes where the trailer can go and what changes how it looks parked, because both cost the same kind of money and only one of them is the reason you wanted the trailer. The tent in particular is a soft good with a life, so where you land on it also feeds the used-value question this page will not answer for you.
Freight is a real line, and the deck price does not carry it.
A built-to-order trailer is somewhere else until it is yours, and closing that distance costs money that the advertised figure leaves out because it does not look like part of the trailer, it looks like shipping. At our defaults that is $1,200, and it grows with distance and with the last stretch to your actual address rather than to the nearest city. The useful move is to get it quoted both ways: a delivery figure from the factory or a dealer, and your own cost to go and collect it as fuel, wear and any nights on the road. Hold one against the other, because neither is expensive or cheap on its own, each is expensive or cheap against the alternative. Whichever you choose, the number belongs on the ledger rather than folded into the deck, where it would disappear and stop being a thing you can shop.
No lead time and no resale figure, because those are the two we have not measured.
They are also the two you would most like us to print, so it is worth saying plainly why they are absent. A built-to-order trailer means a wait, and the wait is genuinely part of what you are choosing, since it is the difference between owning one this season and owning one next. This page does not tell you how long it is, because we have not measured it and a made-up figure would be treated as a fact. Ask the factory, and ask when you order rather than when you enquire. Resale is the same story with more folklore attached, and a folding tent trailer adds a wrinkle: the tent is a soft good that wears while the deck and the running gear last, so a used one is really two ages in one trailer. Look up what your deck length and tent size, at the age you plan to sell, is actually selling for, use what buyers pay rather than what sellers ask, and treat the answer as being about your trailer rather than about the model in general.

This ledger stops on your driveway, and owning it starts there. What is above is acquisition: the deck, the tent, the sheet, the freight, the state and a hitch. It does not include storage, insurance, upkeep, or the value the trailer gives up between now and when you sell it, and on a folding tent trailer the tent is a wearing part that upkeep has to reckon with. Across a few years those are not a footnote. If you are cross-shopping this against another towable, run your figures here to get the honest landed number and hold it against the other trailer's landed number rather than its advertised one, which is the comparison that means something. Finance charges are absent here too: this is what the trailer costs, not what a loan on it costs.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a Jumping Jack trailer cost?
The trailer itself is a factory quote against the deck length, the tent size and the options you tick, so this page leaves that figure to the factory rather than inventing one to stand in for it. What the page adds is the part the advertised deck price cannot show you, which is what it costs to have the rig you are picturing rather than a bare folding trailer. It is a tent trailer, so the tent and the overland kit that make it a camper are separate lines rather than baked into the shell, and then there is freight to get it to you, your state's tax and title, and a hitch if your vehicle is not ready. Put your figures into the form above and you get the landed total and how far it sits above the deck. At our defaults the deck is $7,000, the tent-and-kit is $6,000, and the landed figure is $15,300, which is worth knowing before you order rather than after.
Why is the advertised price so much lower than what people say one costs?
Because the advertised price is the bare deck, and almost nobody camps in the bare deck. A Jumping Jack is a folding tent trailer: the flat off-road trailer tows fine on its own, and the tent that folds off the top of it plus the kit that makes it worth owning are configured on afterwards. So the number in the advert is true and it is also not about the trailer you are going to own. At our defaults the tent and the options come to $6,000 on top of a $7,000 deck, which is nearly the deck again, and then freight and the plate add more. Every one of those pieces is knowable before you order. Fill the boxes above with your own figures and you will have a landed number to compare against other people's advertised ones, which is the comparison that means something.
What options actually matter on a folding tent trailer?
The honest answer is that it depends on where you plan to take it, which is why the page asks you to total your own sheet rather than handing you a list. The forks that move real money are the tent size, which sets how many sleep in it and is coupled to the deck length under it, and the off-road kit, which is the reason to buy this kind of trailer at all: a kitchen, bigger tyres and a lift for clearance, solar to camp away from a hookup, an awning, a spare and the racks for your toys. Each of those is small next to the deck, and that is the trap, because a long sheet of small choices adds up to a large number without any single line looking large. Sort your list into what changes where the trailer can go and what changes how it looks in the driveway, spend on the first before the second, and put the whole figure on the ledger now so the build has an honest finish line rather than a moving one.
Can my car tow a Jumping Jack, and is a tow vehicle in this total?
A vehicle is not in the total, and unlike a larger towable that is often the right call rather than an omission, because a folding tent trailer packs down light and low, so the car on your driveway may well pull one. What that usually leaves is hardware rather than a vehicle: a hitch, the wiring for the lights and brakes, sometimes a controller in the cab, which is why there is a box for it above. Do not take the box as permission, though. Check it properly: take the loaded weight, which is heavier than what left the factory once the tent, the toys and your gear are on the deck, and compare that against your vehicle's tow rating as it is actually configured, which lives on the door jamb and in the manual rather than in the advertising. Check the tongue weight against payload separately, because the trailer presses down on the hitch and that weight is charged against payload rather than against the tow rating, and it is the limit that catches people out. If your vehicle does not clear it, then the honest price of the trailer includes changing vehicles, and that belongs in the decision even though it is not on this ledger.

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